THE-SMART-RAIL® SYSTEM
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THESE INSTRUCTIONS APPLY TO
BOTH
THE
SMART-RAIL®
AND
FAST-RAILS®
INSTALLATIONS
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These instructions are for both the
handy boat owner or the dealer / installer you may choose. If you decide
to have
THE SMART-RAIL®
system installed by a dealer / installer we
ask that you please order through them.
CLEAN, PEEL, STICK & INJECT ADHESIVE
FOR 100%
SATISFACTION, FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY.
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THE-SMART-RAIL elements are:
A = the BODY
B = the WALL
C = the TAIL
D = the INSIDE CORNER
E = the BONDING STRIPS |
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THE HULL AND RAIL SURFACE TEMPERATURE MUST BE AT LEAST 70 DEGREES
(F). In cooler weather, an outdoor heater directed onto the application
area can be used to raise the temperature.
RESOURCES NEEDED
1.
A roll of white paper towels
2.
1 pint ACETONE, as a solvent wash
3.
A quality non-ratchet caulking gun with swivel feature
4.
1 pint ISOPROPYL Rubbing Alcohol
5.
A Disk Sander with appropriate grit sander paper
6.
A few sharp pencils.
7.
A capable assistant and yourself
If you have questions,
please call us prior to installing
1.
SURFACE PREPARATION FOR FIBERGLASS BOATS
Decide location of each rail to be
installed, port & starboard. Mark and measure the exact length of each rail
(they may differ slightly) and mark the lengths on the hull. Within the
marked application area, REMOVE ALL PAINT, DIRT AND WAX, NOT the Gelcote.
For high speed (+ 30 kts) or boats with old Gelcote, sand/remove Gelcote
down to the laminate, then prime with resin so that the TAIL bonding strip
and structural adhesive bond directly to the primed fiberglass laminate. Use
a sander with aluminum-oxide paper until smooth, then WET SAND with the
abrasive paper provided, dipping the paper in water frequently to rinse out
loose particles. Wet-sand to a smooth surface.
Thoroughly wipe the application area with
ACETONE, frequently changing
towels. Wipe dry with a clean towel before liquid dries. A final wipe with
the ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL completes this operation. Gelcote retains
moisture, so allow it to DRY THOROUGHLY.
2.
INSTALLATION GUIDE LINE
FIRST: MARK A VERTICAL START LINE ON BOTH
SIDES OF THE BOW AT EQUAL DISTANCE FROM THE STEM
M-1000:
A displacement hull does not provide for a predetermined rail location.
The perfect solution is to study the effect of waves striking the bow in all
sea and speed conditions to determine the optimum location of the rail.
The guide line is generally set above the bow wave at cruising speed. Once
the first side is done, measure distances from the water line up to the
guide line, every foot. Then mark those positions on the other side.
Reviewing the placement guide is recommended.
M-2000: Using the RAIL TEMPLATE ,
press its INSIDE CORNER firmly onto the chine, with the WALL and TAIL
pressed up against the side and underside of the chine (see fig. 4 / Page
6). While holding this position, slide the TEMPLATE slowly along the
application area, from stem to bow, drawing a pencil line on the hull, using
the WALL top as a guide (practice sliding the TEMPLATE along
the chine before marking). The resulting line must be exactly parallel to
the chine, no bumps or dips. NOTE: See Fig. 4 on Page 6. In some
cases, the M-2000 maybe installed slightly back of the stem for a
better fit on the disappearing chine.
Some hulls have a DISAPPEARING CHINE,
(this is when the chine gradually tapers or becomes flat at the bow);
have the ASSISTANT place a straight ruler in line with the line you just
drew; and continue drawing the line towards the bow. When both sides of the
boat are done, stand facing the bow and make sure the two lines meet at
the bow.
The radius of the chine edge may increase
going aft. The chine angle may vary from bow to stem. Make sure that the
position of the rail is at the same general angle as fig. 4 / Page 6, and
not excessively angled up or down. The flexibility of the TAIL, when
HEATED, allows you to fit it to the changing angles. Practice with
the TEMPLATE; and the handling of the rail with your assistant making sure
that both know beforehand exactly what to do and when.
From this point on, pick one side of the
boat and perform steps 3 to 6, without interruption.
Make sure that no foreign material has corrupted the area.
3.
APPLICATION OF 3M-94 PRIMER
Four ampoules are supplied, one for each 9
ft bonding strip area. Thumb-crush ampoule on DOT, shake a few times,
pointing ampoule downwards. Lightly apply primer to hull. below
the guide line, along the 9 ft. area where the upper 1/2" bonding strip is
applied; shake ampoule frequently. With the next ampoule, repeat process
for the lower bonding strip area. NOTE: Model-2000: while applying primer
under the chine, point the ampoule downward frequently to supply constant
flow of primer to wick. Primer evaporates quickly; a light coat is
sufficient. Double coat "disappearing chine" area if there is one.
4.
REMOVAL OF GUARDS & RELEASE LINER FROM THE WALL BONDING STRIP
With hands CLEAN, remove the PROTECTIVE
GUARDS from the WALL and TAIL. Then completely remove the clear RELEASE
LINER from the WALL's BONDING
STRIP ONLY.
DO NOT remove the RELEASE LINER on the TAIL BONDING STRIP.
5.
RAIL APPLICATION - WALL SECTION
Once in place, THE RAIL STAYES! SO MAKE
SURE YOU FOLLOW THE GUIDE LINE.
Starting at the BOW, the INSTALLER applies
the WALL, 1/16" below the GUIDE LINE, with FIRM thumb pressure. The
ASSISTANT holds the rail away from the hull, level with the GUIDE
LINE, stretching the rail aft, protecting it from contact with ANYTHING.
Continue applying the WALL up to the end of the rail, inch by inch with
one hand holding the BODY, and the other hand applying firm THUMB
pressure on the wall. Follow the guide line to get a smooth
installation.
Using the single round edge wheel of the
INSTALLATION TOOL, from the bow end, apply roller pressure, first along
TRACK-1, then 2, and 3. NOTE: apply approximately 30 lbs. pressure,
advancing a few inches at a time (Determine the pressure on a bathroom
scale).
Marking the rail every foot with a pencil,
top and bottom, will help in monitoring progress of the TOOL procedure.
Check off each section after roller pressure is completed for Tracks-1, 2,
3,
This procedure prevents air being trapped
between hull and bonding strip.
6.
RAIL APPLICATION - TAIL SECTION
Start the TAIL application at the aft
(back) end. Bending the BODY upwards allows you to remove the RELEASE
LINER, 12" at a time, so that the TAIL does not prematurely bond to the
hull. The ASSISTANT checks for a straight body alignment while the
INSTALLER APPLIES FIRM THUMB PRESSURE, HOLDING A FEW SECONDS IN EACH
POSITION.
As you approach the bow, if you reach a
DISAPPEARING CHINE, the ASSISTANT may heat the TAIL with a HAIR DRYER to
increase flexibility. FIRMLY PRESS THE BODY INTO THE HULL while pulling
back the TAIL so that the TAIL is bonded to the then vertical part of the
hull. Practice this procedure before removal of the release liner.
THE TAIL BOND IS UNDER THE GREATEST
STRESS; PERFECT BONDING OF EVERY INCH IS ESSENTIAL.
The ASSISTANT, using both hands on the
INSTALLATION TOOL, applies about 30 lbs. pressure along Track-1, 2, & 3
from bow to stem. Extra pressure on the TAIL along the DISAPPEARING CHINE
is recommended, along with heat from the HAIR DRYER, because the TAIL
tries to return to its original angle (M-2000 model only),
Return to Step 3 for the other side. Once
BOTH are completed to this point, go to Step 7.
7.
STRUCTURAL ADHESIVE SET-UP
REMEMBER: the mixed adhesive
hardens in approximately 15 minutes.
First decide between the straight and the
curved needle tip; depending upon the angles of the application. Do not
remove cap on adhesive yet (even if you are curious!). The adhesive
will mix.
8.
ASSEMBLY OF ADHESIVE APPLICATION TOOLS.
When you have bonded BOTH port and
starboard rails, and if you are ready to apply the structural adhesive;
set up the dispensing system as follows: insert the cartridge nose-first
through the oval opening of the clear sleeve until its flange fits snugly
against the end of the sleeve. Now put the whole assembly into the
caulking gun (fig. 1 / Page 6); secure the sleeve to the caulking gun with
tape. Place the blue plunger into the back end of the cartridge (fig. I /
Page 6). MAKE SURE THE PLUNGER IS ALIGNED PROPERLY WITH CARTRIDGE. Select
the desired needle tip, bent or straight (one or the other is easier to
use depending on the position you assume in handling the caulking gun).
Remove the cap from the adhesive cartridge with a 1/4 turn. Make sure the
exposed resin and activator have not hardened; clean out the channels if
necessary with a small nail. Do not mix the two elements on the nail.
Install the static mixer on the cartridge with a firm 1/4 turn. If using
the bent needle tip, align it in the caulking gun so that the bend points
upwards and away from the direction of travel, i.e. starting from the stem
end and working towards the bow, the bent needle tip points toward the
stem, and visa versa. Firmly force the needle tip on to the mixing nozzle.
Squeeze out a small bead of adhesive until
it changes from light yellow to white. This indicates a correct mixture.
The adhesive system is now ready for use.
9.
ADHESIVE APPLICATION STRESS IS GREATEST ON THE TAIL SO THE FOLLOWING IS
CRITICAL!
For the M-2000
only this process is applied in two passes; each pass includes both rails.
One hand operates the gun and the other steadies needle tip. Starting at
the chosen end of one rail. insert the needle tip under the TAIL edge so
that it just touches the edge of the BONDING STRIP (see page 6, fig. 2);
INJECT THE ADHESIVE DEEPLY INTO THE GAP, filling it with a 3/8"
bead (like spot welding), then pull the needle out STRAIGHT, advance about
1 1/2" and inject another 3/8" adhesive bead and so on until you reach the
rail's end. Do the next rail in the identical way. The ASSISTANT, with
latex glove, presses the adhesive beads well into the gap. DO NOT REMOVE
ANY ADHESIVE. Latex-sensitive people should use vinyl gloves instead.
After the beads have hardened,
set up a fresh set of cartridge/mixer/needle into the caulking gun. Return
to the starting point and fill each bare 1 1/2" section, injecting
the adhesive to fill the gap completely. With glove, smooth out the edge
of the adhesive so it overlaps the TAIL edge and hull.
With remaining adhesive, apply a small
amount of adhesive along the top of the WALL; fill the gaps at rail ends
(INSIDE CORNER), and apply a 2nd overlapping coat along the TAIL edge
particularly at the waterline, and along the DISAPPEARING CHINE, if any.
Use all the adhesive supplied. After the adhesive has cured, any high
points can be sanded.
*Allow the adhesion process to run its
course. The structural
adhesive cures in 1 hour. 80% adhesion of Bonding Strips in about 2 hours,
100% in 36 hours at 70 F. After the structural adhesive has cured, you may
heat the WALL and TAIL with the Hair Dryer to accelerate the bonding
process.
For the M-1000
only, insert the needle tip deeply into the gap, and inject adhesive,
moving about 1/4"5 at a time, completely filling the gap.
Lightly smooth out the adhesive before it hardens* Make up new assembly as
required, and continue the second coat after the first has hardened.
Remember to fill the ends and top wall with a small amount of adhesive.
10.
CONNECTING RAILS.
The rail ends MUST meet at a perfect 90
degrees. Use table or chop saw, rough up ends with 120 grit paper. Spacing
the rails 1/16 to 1/8 apart, apply a strip of clear packing tape over the
top of joint, then deeply inject the adhesive from the bottom, using the
needle tip until the joint is filled. Remove excess adhesive from the
bottom.
11.
PAINTING THE RAILS
Before applying paint or trim tape, wipe the
surface down with Acetone. Vinyl spray paint, (available at automotive
stores) because of its flexibility or oil bottom paint can be used. A primer
may be needed for some paints. Consult with a paint professional.
12.
CUSTOMIZING THE ENDS OF THE RAILS
After the adhesive has hardened, taper the
ends with a disk sander/medium grit paper. Rub with an Acetone soaked rag,
to smooth out the area. It is advisable to round off all sharp edges.
NOTE: STORAGE OF RAILS AND ADHESIVE KIT
BEFORE INSTALLATION.
Store rails in a cool, dry area.
To extend the shelf life of the adhesive, cartridges should be properly
packaged and kept under refrigeration (do not freeze). Before using,
allow rails and adhesive to reach the required minimum 70 F application
temperature.
WARNING!
Do not use the rail as a foot step or hand hold.
With the rails installed, the boat may
well turn much more sharply, especially at speed, possibly creating an
unexpected centrifugal force which could put passengers at risk. Try
smooth turns first to familiarize yourself with performance changes. Test
the boat under all sea and speed conditions before active use. Also,
follow the safety recommendations of manufacturers of all products used
during installation. Keep all adhesives away from open flame, sparks, and
children.
IF BOAT IS RAISED BY TRAVEL-LIFT SLINGS, PROTECT THE RAILS WITH BLOCKS
(place yellow reminder label at steering station)
SMART MARINE PRODUCTS
CORP. (SMPC) makes no warranties, expressed or implied, including but not
limited to, any implied warranties of merchantability or fitness for a
particular purpose. The exclusive remedy, if any, to the original buyer/user
of THE-SMART-RAIL shall be the refund of the purchase price (no more than
the suggested retail price) of, or to repair or replace the product at
SMPC's option, provided the product is returned shipment prepaid, after SMPC
has been notified in writing and has agreed in writing to accept such
responsibility, We are confident that you will be delighted with the
performance improvements of your boat. Your comments and suggestions are
welcomed. AGAIN DO THE JOB RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!
SMART MARINE PRODUCTS CORP. 706 Great Plain
Avenue, Needham, MA, 02492-3326 TEL:
954-445-8897 /FAX: 954-445-8897
(primary) and backup is # 781-444-5275
/ Cell: 954-445-8897 Eastern
USA Time, 9 am to 5 pm. Please visit us at WWW.THESMARTRA1L.COM
&
WWW.FASTRAILS.COM

Warning
Paying close attention to the details in these instructions will avoid
disappointing results. “DO THE JOB RIGHT THE FIRST TIME”
- Rail and Hull temperature must be 70 degrees (F) or
above.
- Application area must be paint-free, dewaxed, and wet
sanded to a smooth surface and then completely dry.
- Adhesive must be injected deeply into the gap at the
edge of the TAIL. This is very important for high performance bonding (the
product has been in continuous commercial service for six years and has
been tested at speeds of 85 mph, using this adhesive technology).
- NOTE: If the adhesive gap closes down along a
disappearing chine, it may be difficult to insert the needle tip. The
assistant heats the tail edge with a hair dryer until it is hot to the
touch;
- then the installer is able to continue sliding the
needle tip deeply into the gap while at the same time injecting the
adhesive.
- Once the first coat of adhesive has cured, apply a
second coat along the entire edge of the gap, slightly overlapping the
tail edge. Use ALL the adhesive supplied
Again, take
your time
“DO THE JOB RIGHT THE FIRST TIME” |